Sounds and Smells of Vietnam

First, let me first say, in Vietnam, even when you are not hungry, you are hungry. No matter what your stomach might say, when you smell the warm air filled with the aroma of freshly baked pastries or the scent of fried spring rolls, your brain says, "Let's Eat!"

One night, as I enjoyed dinner while sitting in child-sized red and blue plastic chairs on the sidewalk of a busy street, the constant buzz of mopeds created whirl of warm air that I couldn't help but notice was filled with the dirt and grit of the streets. However, I have to say the grit in the air was barely noticeable while enjoying the freshly prepared Vietnamese cuisine that even a small hole in the wall restaurant can offer.

A distant crackling sounds caught my attention, as I originally thought it was coming from the kitchen, but later found there were mass of power lines all attached to a single pole that was causing the noise. After dinner I walked the streets, partly to keep from falling asleep after a huge meal, and partly (coincidentally) to look for dessert.

I quickly found that casually crossing the street was a thing of the past. No one stops. Ever. Be it bicycles, mopeds, or cars. A red light is only reason for pause. Everyone is constantly moving, but somehow it all works out. So when crossing the road, I found it important to stay constantly moving. No quick or sudden dashes across the road, or you are bound to get hit. If your movement is constant all those on the road can predict where you will be when they arrive to the intersection and what they will need to do to avoid you. I found myself holding my breath each time we crossed the road and then breathing a dirt-filled sigh of relief that we made another successful trip across the road.

Peddling his dried fish on the busy streets

I settled on bubble tea, a smoothie with your choice of fruit and small balls of freshly-made tapioca at the bottom. The building was illuminated with neon boards that read "Vancouver" and "Beautiful British Columbia," which I found rather odd. Maybe Vancouver was their city of dreams.

I sat at a small glass-topped table with a rattan chair that I was hoping would hold my weight. The table tipped from side to side as I rested my arms. I chose strawberry. They took such great care in making the smoothies, carefully blending each drink with fresh berries and sealing the top. Then they popped a thick pointed straw into the sealed top. The smoothie was delightfully fresh and cool, the seeds making me feel as if I were enjoying a 'healthy' treat.

As I headed back to the hotel, I walked down a narrow sidewalk. Though it was late, the air was still warm and small business that lined the street were still open for business. To keep busy, proprietors would brush rubbish away from the area in front of their store with what appeared the be a handmade broom, in hopes of attracting more customers. It was a constant sound from all of the businesses, straw to the concrete sidewalk. Back and forth. Some with a rhythm. Always staying busy. Always moving. Always.

Vietnam: The History of Ho Chi Minh City

I believe that you can develop a better appreciation of the present with a proper understanding of the past. Therefore, I have set out a brief history of Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) to help you better appreciate the amazing city that is today.

HCMC has certainly come a long way, in both name and culture, from its original beginning as a small fishing village, to the bustling metropolitan city that it is today. Originally inhabited by the Khmer people for centuries, ruled by the Vietnamese, and then conquered by the French in 1859, HCMC has a many cultural influences. HCMC was originally named Prey Nokor, which roughly means “god” or “heavenly” in Khmer. After Prey Nokor was settled by Vietnamese refugees from the north, the name was changed to Saigon.

Port of Saigon circa 1862

From 1859 to 1954, the French ruled HCMC. In 1954, the French were defeated by the Communist Viet Minh in the Battle of Điện Biên Phủ, and withdrew from Vietnam. Rather than recognizing the Communists as the new government, they gave their backing to a government established by Emperor Bảo Đại. Bảo Đại had set up Saigon as his capital in 1950.

At the conclusion of the American/Vietnam War on April 30, 1975, the city of Saigon came under control of the Vietnam People’s Army. American’s typically know this as the “Fall of Saigon.”

President Ho Chi Minh

In 1976, upon the establishment of the unified communist Socialist Republic of Vietnam, the city of Saigon, the province of Gia Ðịnh, and 2 suburban districts of two other nearby provinces were combined to create Hồ Chí Minh City in honour of the late communist leader Hồ Chí Minh. The former name Saigon is still widely used by many Vietnamese, especially in informal contexts.

Vietnam: Flights

Vietnam has two major international airports. Ho Chi Minh City is located in the South and Hanoi is in the North. These airports are served by many direct flights from several countries overseas, but long-haul flights usually stop in Bangkok, Singapore, Taipei or Tokyo where travelers will transfer to smaller planes for another flight to Vietnam.

Tan Son Nhat International Airport (airport code SGN) in Ho Chi Minh City is Vietnam's largest airport, located about eight kilometers from the city center. The airport code comes from the city's former name of Saigon.

When stepping off the airplane, prepare yourself to be welcomed my a warm hug of sultry heat waves! Vietnam was one of the most humid and just downright hottest countries I have visited. Locals seem to relax during the day and sit on the street chatting, while selling all sorts of foods. Then at night, they head to the market and out on the town. Don't forget to drink lots of (bottled) water!

Tuk-tuking around HCMC

The easiest and least expensive method of transport from the airport to the city is the relatively recently introduced bus No. 152. It's air-conditioned, and will drop you off in the city center.

However, we didn't exactly know about this at the time and first agreed to take one carrier's transport service, until we found out that it was no more than a moped. But he was convinced he could squeeze us and our luggage on the tiny bike. Rather than finding out, we played it safe and took a tuk-tuk.

A stream of mopeds speeding down a Saigon street

When heading home, don't forget that you will be asked to pay a departure tax as you're leaving the country (unless it was included in the price of your ticket) - don't spend all your money before you get to the airport! I believe this is under $20.

Vietnam: What the Phở?

Where to I begin?!? The food in Vietnam is some of the best I have ever eaten. The traditional Vietnamese dish of Phở is certainly a dreamy bowl of cultural delight that amazingly cools you off on a sultry day.

Phở -nomenal

Phở is served as a bowl of white rice noodles in clear beef broth, with thin cuts of beef (steak, fatty flank, lean flank, brisket).

Seasonings include Saigon cinnamon, star anise, charred ginger, cloves, and sometimes black cardamom pods which are sewn up in a disposable pouch and dipped into the broth.

Enjoying some phở on Mui Ne Beach... am I slurping?
I think so, but it is culturally permissible in Vietnam. Whew!

The dish is garnished with ingredients such as green onions, white onions, coriander leaves (cilantro), ngò gai (culantro, or long coriander), Thai basil, lemon or lime wedges, and bean sprouts. The last five items are usually provided on a separate plate, which allows customers to adjust the soup's flavor as they like. Some sauces such as hoisin sauce, fish sauce, and the Thai hot sauce Sriracha, are popular additions as well.

This dish differs by regions, as each region uses garnishes that grow near them. So one thing that is certain is that every bowl will be different, and the wonderful thing about pho is that it is served for breakfast, lunch and dinner!

And just in case this bowl of goodness isn't your cup of tea, there is a variety of other amazing dishes that will blow your mind! The seafood is caught fresh daily and literally served to you within only a few hours. I wanted to try it all!

Sea bass with peanuts and sweet chili sauce

Don't miss out on the Vietnamese coffee. Made with the richest coffee and a delightful drop of sweetened condensed milk, it is a delicious spin on your morning joe! As you see it comes with a mini filter that sits on the top of your cup, so you can make a second cup if you like!

Vietnamese Coffee

Vietnam: Getting There

Officially named The Socialist Republic of Vietnam, Vietnam is an absolutely amazing tourist destination. Vietnam is bordered by China, Laos, and Cambodia. To the east lies the South China Sea. So not only is there a lot to see in Vietnam, but it is only a stones throw away from many other destinations as well.


Though the GDP is on the rise, Vietnam is still a relatively inexpensive place to visit. With beach resorts starting at about $35. But before you head to Vietnam, make sure you have your VISA.

Heading to get the VISA... glad I am not driving!

VISA
A VISA to Vietnam can be applied for by mail or in person at the Embassy of Vietnam as early as six months prior to the date of travel. The applicant must submit:
• Original PASSPORT.
• One completed and signed visa application form with 01 passport-size photo glued or stapled.
• VISA fee in the form of MONEY ORDER, or CASHIER’S CHECK, or CERTIFIED CHECK payable to “THE EMBASSY OF VIETNAM.” Applicants applying together may submit the fee in one money order.
• A prepaid return envelope, if the applicant requests the visa be returned by mail. Use US Express Mail (UPS and DHL are not accepted for the return envelope). Applicants applying together may provide one envelope for visas to be returned to the same address.

We got our VISA at the Vietnamese Embassy while we were visiting Phenom Penh, Cambodia. We paid the for the expedited service, which I believe cost $60. It took 2 business days. Generally, however, it takes 5 - 7 business days to process visa applications.

Vietnamese Embassy, Phenom Penh, Cambodia

It seemed that we were lucky in getting our VISAS in only 2 days because there were other travelers that were not having the same luck. I think that getting your VISA in Phenom Penh is a bit of a gamble, as there seems to be no exact process. Your best bet... plan in advance in get your VISA before you go.

Recipe - Num Tirk Doung (Coconut Pound Cake)

Khmer Krom coconut pound cake is a moist and delicious cake often taken to the pagoda for food offerings on religious holidays, and also served at local markets. A delightful treat that can be topped with fruit or eaten on its own.

Ingredients:

• 4 Eggs
• 2 Cups all purpose flour
• ½ Cup melted butter
• ½ Cup coconut milk
• ¼ Cup fresh or frozen unsweeted, shredded coconut
• 1½ Cup sugar
• 2 Tablespoons pure vanilla extract
• ½ Teaspoon baking powder
• ¼ Teaspoon salt

Directions:

1. Preheat oven at 325 degrees.
2. In a mixing bowl, cream butter and sugar together.
3. Add egg, one at a time with butter sugar. Mix well.
4. Add vanilla, baking powder, salt and coconut milk.
5. Blended all purpose flour and shredded coconut.
6. Greased cake pan with cooking oil and sprinkle some flour at the bottom of cake pan.
7. Pour the cake batter in to the cake pan.
8. Bake for 1 ½ hours.
9. Remove the cake from the oven, cool and remove from pan.
10. Cream cheese icing with toasted coconut is optional (and yummy!)
11. Serve with tea or coffee.

Cambodian Recipe - Taro Chips

When we were at the Elephant Bar at the Raffles Hotel, they served taro chips, which turned out to be a classy spin on chips and salsa, and far better than any bar food that I had ever tried. It is quite simple to make these tasty (and healthy) little treats.

Ingredients:

One large taro
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt

Preparation:

1. Peel the taro. A carrot peeler works great, but if you do not have one just use a paring knife.
2. Thinly slice the taro, then cut into strips.
3. Soak the taro in water to remove excess starch.
4. Generously spread olive oil on a baking sheet and place the taro on the sheet, careful no to overlap. Can also line with aluminum foil.
   
5. Sprinkle with salt.
6. Bake for 10 – 15 minutes on each side at 350 degrees.
7. These can be eaten on their own or served with chutney, sweet chili sauce, or even on their own.