Travel Bug Blog

Siem Reap, Cambodia: Snacking, Dining, and Drinking!

2009-06-10T13:50:00.000-07:00

For a comparatively small town, Siem Reap offers an amazing range of cuisines and dining venues. The emphasis is on Khmer food, which can be found at restaurants across town, but European and other Asian cuisines are also well represented, including Italian, Thai, German, Vietnamese, Indian, Chinese, Korean, Japanese and, of course, French.

Given Cambodia's long relationship with France and France's gastronomic traditions, it is no surprise some of the town’s finest venues offer French cuisine. So explore and enjoy!

Feeling a little crazy, try Estatic Pizza and get the happiest pizza you'll ever eat! They are located Opposite Province Hospital, Near Old Market, Phone: (855 11) 928 531.

The proprietor takes the orders and bakes the pies. A great casual place to relax and enjoy a special little treat... The pizza is made with the finest green leafy substance around and will certainly leave you hungry for more ;)

My tip... order one pizza, extra happy, and then one regular for the road. Otherwise it's just a downward spiral, baby!

Happy Pizza

... and that's certainly not an abundance of oregano!

Mui Ne, Vietnam: Hot Rock Restaurant

2009-06-01T10:01:00.000-07:00

So looking at this little make-shift hut, I have to say, my expectations weren't set to high. On the good side, there were several scooters parked out front, which generally indicates that I've found a local hangout (since most of the tourists were far too scared to venture onto a moped). I thought I'd give it a try. What did I have to lose. It was called Hot Rock. But frankly, as long as it's not a franchise restaurant, I am down to try anything...

The Hot Rock Restaurant

Much to my surprise the Hot Rock was a fun little place. Owned by ex-pats who were eager to show you just how the place got the name Hot Rock... they welcome you by laying down some hot rocks (bricks) and a little grill, and then serve you a variety of the freshest seafood, topped with a tiny slab of butter, half wrapped in foil. They do have a menu, but when hitting a place like this I find it much better to just have the waiter/proprietor (which is generally the case in Vietnam) send out their picks.

On this occasion, they served up a ridiculous amount of seafood, and a dipping sauce for each. I had shrimp, scallops, squid, white fish and a variety of unidentified tidbits that made my mouth dance with excitement. I loved the crackling sound as the butter melted and dripped over the sides of the fish and onto the charcoal, which then sent up a puff of smoke and gently flavored my fantastic little treats.

You cook your meal at your pace, and to your liking. Which is always fantastic, I think. A little hands on never hurt anyone. I left the shrimp on long enough to allow it to get blackened, giving it a hearty and smokey flavor that can't be rivaled. The scallops were grilled just long enough to see the grill markings, but not as to not loose the moisture. The squid curled as it cooked, blackening just the tips, giving it an amazing flavor. Try that with a sweet chili sauce, and you're money!

Siem Reap, Cambodia: A Game Plan for Angkor Wat

2009-05-31T17:06:00.000-07:00

With such an amazing history and story, it would seems a waste to only "drop by" Angkor Wat. You really need to have a game plan in effect for visiting this site. I explored the temples for two days, and felt like there was still so much that I could have seen and done.

In preparation of the big adventure, I would highly suggest that you contract with a tuk tuk driver for your entire stay in Siem Reap. Not only is it the easiest way to get around, but the drivers are reliable and affordable, and can definitely use the funds to help support their family.

Bayon

I have set out a two-day schedule for exploring Angkor Wat. However, if you have more time, that is fantastic!

For your first day, get up bright and early and visit Angkor Thom, Bayon, Elephant and Leper King Terrace. Be sure to get there for sunrise, as it is simply gorgeous at Bayon temple. You can either break for lunch at the many tiny restaurants dotting the nearby roads, or better yet, pack a lunch and picnic right there!

In the afternoon, take your time exploring and visiting Ta Prohm and Angkor Wat. Wear those walking shoes and be prepared for a full day!

If you aren't too scared of heights, be sure to climb (very carefully) to the top of Angkor Wat for an outstanding view. There is one hand rail for the 25 foot wide stairs, and since only one person is lucky enough to use it, most just pile up the stairs with reckless abandon. Me? Not so much. I waited it out til all those crazy kids got up there, then proceeded to take the handrail! Much better!

On day two, check out Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Mebon and Pre Rup. Don't miss Angkor Wat's reflection on the lake as the sun begins to set. It makes for a breathtaking view and awe-inspiring photos.

After seeing this amazing site, do your best to give back to the community, be it through making a few purchases at the local shops and restaurants, or simply by tipping your tour guide or driver. They appreciate it more than you will ever know!

Siem Reap, Cambodia: Visiting Angkor Wat

2009-05-25T17:40:00.000-07:00

Angkor Wat is not one temple, but a complex of many temples at Angkor, Cambodia, built for the King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century as his state temple and capital city.

Unlike most Khmer temples, Angkor Wat is oriented to the west rather than the east. This has led many to conclude that Suryavarman intended it to serve as his funerary temple.

Afternoon reflections

The outer wall, 1024 by 802 m and 4.5 m high, is surrounded by a 30 m apron of open ground and a moat 190 m wide. Access to the temple is by an earth bank to the east and a sandstone causeway to the west; the latter, the main entrance, is a later addition, possibly replacing a wooden bridge.

A view from the top of the main temple

Bayon Temple

The Bayon Temple was the last state temple to be built at Angkor, and the only Angkorian state temple to be built primarily as a Mahayana Buddhist shrine dedicated to the Buddha, though a great number of minor and local deities were also encompassed as representatives of the various districts and cities of the realm.

The Faces of Bayon Temple

The similarity of the 216 gigantic faces on the temple's towers to other statues of the king has led many scholars to the conclusion that the faces are representations of Jayavarman VII himself. Look for the smiling face at sunrise. It a truly amazing view that will make you smile for years after your visit.

All smiles...

Siem Reap, Cambodia: The History

2009-04-09T11:31:00.000-07:00

Siem Reap is a small colonial town just north of Southeast Asia’s largest lake, Tonle Sap. The town itself is charming and delightful to explore, and offers some lovely examples of French colonial architecture though modern developments, mostly in the form of hotels.

It has been a relatively slow demise of the Khmer Rouge, but now that the town is safe again, visitors have used it as a base for visits to Angkor Wat.

Ruins of Angkor

A Bit of History...

From the 9th to the 14th centuries, as Europe was still struggling out of the Dark Ages, the Cambodian Empire of Angkor encompassed most of present-day Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand.

Reliefs in Angkor

The heart of this empire during its peak in the 12th century was the ancient capital of Angkor Thom (near present day Siem Reap), the site of the world’s largest temple complexes that was only rediscovered in 1861, overgrown by jungle.

Overgrown trees of Angkor

This spectacular city was built over 30 years under the reign of Suryavarman II (1113-1150). The whole area covers 400 sqare kilometers and is brimming with the finest examples of Khmer art and architecture. Within the Angkor Wat compound alone, are over 100 stone monuments and temple edifices, each of which contains countless statues, sculptures and bas reliefs that have weathered extremely well over the last 800 years.

Stone lion statue

Exploring...
To see the whole thing can take several days, as you get delightfully lost in its labyrinthine corridors. The most important temples to visit in the area are Angkor Wat – especially at sunrise and sunset; Angkor Thom, the remains of the capital; Ta Prohm, a palace overgrown by jungle; and Preah Khan, which is also overgrown and in the process of restoration.

Labyrinthine

I spent much time exploring and lost, walking along winding paths, confused by aware. All the while I was lost, I was not scared, but was enveloped in the moment and appreciating my surroundings. I allowed myself to see things that not every traveler would, and to venture off the beaten path.

Relief in Angkor

Take your time. Explore. Get lost. And find yourself. A visit to this city would never be regretted. Enjoy!

A little lost...

and loving life!

Mui Ne, Vietnam: Red Sand Dunes

2008-09-03T15:05:00.000-07:00

You haven't tried everything until you have tried sledding down a sand dune! Mui Ne is not only known for its amazing coast line, but also for its rich red sand dunes.

The sand and the water meet for an amazing view

Only a short ride by moped on the only road leading north out of town and you will find the well-known red sand dunes. Once there, it is only seconds until you have an entourage of little boys asking if they can "help" you go sledding.

The entourage

They are cute, and of course, you do need something to sled on, because last time I checked I forgot to bring a plastic sled. They work in teams and will offer to watch your moped, while the others carry the sled to the best location, which happens to be about a mile away!

Once you are there, if you still have any bit of breathe left, they will escort you on a tiny sheet of plastic, your sled, and ask you to hang on to a piece of rope. Before you know it they are behind you and push you down a pretty steep dune.

Note: Keep your mouth shut! Though you would like to scream an excited, "Wheeeee," remember, you are sliding down sand. Sand! And unless you want a mouth full of grit and grime, close the trap!

The kids will stay out there with you until you have had your fill. Frankly, hiking back up that dune a few times was all I needed for my vacation workout.

Wheeeee!

The trekking and sledding was certainly invigorating, and so was the face of the kid who was watching your moped. Now, the entire entourage, even the kid just following you around, wants to be paid. Each would like about $20, which would make your little sand sledding adventure about $200. Don't worry, they are happy with $20 altogether.

As we drove our moped back to the resort, I attempted to brush the sand off of my face, causing a nice exfoliation, bordering on peel. The best thing to do is the outdoor shower. Don't miss your ears... because the sand sure didn't.

Ah yes, the red sand... deeply embedded in every pore of my body!

Then smile, after all, you just rode down a 100 foot sand dune on a tiny sheet of plastic... and survived!

At the bottom of the dune, with a mouthful of sand!

Mui Ne: Where to Stay

2008-08-19T14:56:00.000-07:00

If you haven't already booked your hotel, I would very happily suggest Bien Xanh, also known as the Blue Ocean Resort. It is an absolute retreat, with bungalows opening up directly to the ocean. You can watch the fishermen head out at day break and come in with their catch.

They also offer on-site laundry service, which was very convenient, especially when traveling light. Bien Xanh has a beautiful, crystal clear swimming pool with a swim-up bar. Perfect for those lazy afternoons. The breakfast is a full buffet of local fruits, custom-made omelets, tables of side items, and a barrage of fresh juices.

Relaxing in the gorgeous pool and...

reflecting!

There is also a great restaurant located beach side offering great snacks, both American and Vietnamese. So if you are craving that pepperoni pizza, but also want some pho, this is your place. I am starting to sound a bit like an advertisement. But actually, I was just really amazed with the quality and service at the resort.

There were also other resorts within walking distance. So if you want to change it up or meet your fellow tourists, most of the resorts do have nice, moderately priced, restaurants and bars.

Pho please!

Also, watch for the happy hour. In Mui Ne, they do it right with buy-one-get-one-free drinks, 3p.m. - 8p.m. at most lounges.

Mui Ne, Vietnam: Getting Away to the Beach

2008-08-07T10:27:00.000-07:00

When you need to get away from the hustle and bustle of busy HCMC, hop a bus and visit Mui Ne Beach, where you will find beautiful blue ocean, red sand dunes, and friendly locals more than happy to show you around.

Enjoying the blue ocean view

Mui Ne is a coastal resort town in the Binh Thuan Province of southeastern Vietnam, located on an arm of the South China Sea. The town is close to the city of Phan Thiết, the home of fish sauce, so be sure to try every varietal of fish they offer. It is fresh and the sauce is incredible!

Colorful boats line the shoreline

By bus, Mui Ne is about six hours from HCMC, making one stop at a fuel station, allow for a quick restroom break, ice cream and cookies. If this won't keep your belly full, you are free to bring your own food and drink on the bus, but be sure to purchase it the night before, as the bus leaves around 6 a.m., before most stores are open.

The bus ride was around $35 per person, round trip. The tickets can be purchased at most travel agencies in HCMC. We simply walked in one near our hotel, and the next day we were off to Mui Ne.

Our bus was equipped with a/c, which was a big plus from those Cambodian bus rides! The seats reclined, but it is close quarters and like many buses, the multi-colored cloth seats end up in the persons lap behind you when you decide to recline, so keep that in mind.

Docking time in Mui Ne

Upon arriving to Mui Ne Beach, the bus will drop you off at a fairly inexpensive hotel with small bungalows and offer you the "lowest rates." If you have not made reservations and need a place, it did look clean and many backpackers decided to stay.

However, don't feel like you need to get roped in to the drop-off hotel. There are many great hotels in Mui Ne, offering beachfront bungalows, and a reasonable rate. So in my opinion, do your research and book online before you get there. You will get a better rate and a better location.

You will notice that there are no cabs in Mui Ne. This is because it is such a laid back beach lifestyle. You can simply flag down someone on a moped and offer them some money. They are more than happy to take you to your hotel. Just be ready to pile all your bags on the moped with you and hold on tight!

If you are interested in renting a moped, ask your driver. It was our experience that for about $10 a day, the driver rented out his personal moped and helmet, no credit card, no deposit, no hassle.

Sounds and Smells of Vietnam

2008-05-14T22:41:00.000-07:00

First, let me first say, in Vietnam, even when you are not hungry, you are hungry. No matter what your stomach might say, when you smell the warm air filled with the aroma of freshly baked pastries or the scent of fried spring rolls, your brain says, "Let's Eat!"

One night, as I enjoyed dinner while sitting in child-sized red and blue plastic chairs on the sidewalk of a busy street, the constant buzz of mopeds created whirl of warm air that I couldn't help but notice was filled with the dirt and grit of the streets. However, I have to say the grit in the air was barely noticeable while enjoying the freshly prepared Vietnamese cuisine that even a small hole in the wall restaurant can offer.

A distant crackling sounds caught my attention, as I originally thought it was coming from the kitchen, but later found there were mass of power lines all attached to a single pole that was causing the noise. After dinner I walked the streets, partly to keep from falling asleep after a huge meal, and partly (coincidentally) to look for dessert.

I quickly found that casually crossing the street was a thing of the past. No one stops. Ever. Be it bicycles, mopeds, or cars. A red light is only reason for pause. Everyone is constantly moving, but somehow it all works out. So when crossing the road, I found it important to stay constantly moving. No quick or sudden dashes across the road, or you are bound to get hit. If your movement is constant all those on the road can predict where you will be when they arrive to the intersection and what they will need to do to avoid you. I found myself holding my breath each time we crossed the road and then breathing a dirt-filled sigh of relief that we made another successful trip across the road.

Peddling his dried fish on the busy streets

I settled on bubble tea, a smoothie with your choice of fruit and small balls of freshly-made tapioca at the bottom. The building was illuminated with neon boards that read "Vancouver" and "Beautiful British Columbia," which I found rather odd. Maybe Vancouver was their city of dreams.

I sat at a small glass-topped table with a rattan chair that I was hoping would hold my weight. The table tipped from side to side as I rested my arms. I chose strawberry. They took such great care in making the smoothies, carefully blending each drink with fresh berries and sealing the top. Then they popped a thick pointed straw into the sealed top. The smoothie was delightfully fresh and cool, the seeds making me feel as if I were enjoying a 'healthy' treat.

As I headed back to the hotel, I walked down a narrow sidewalk. Though it was late, the air was still warm and small business that lined the street were still open for business. To keep busy, proprietors would brush rubbish away from the area in front of their store with what appeared the be a handmade broom, in hopes of attracting more customers. It was a constant sound from all of the businesses, straw to the concrete sidewalk. Back and forth. Some with a rhythm. Always staying busy. Always moving. Always.

Vietnam: The History of Ho Chi Minh City

2008-04-02T12:27:00.000-07:00

I believe that you can develop a better appreciation of the present with a proper understanding of the past. Therefore, I have set out a brief history of Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) to help you better appreciate the amazing city that is today.

HCMC has certainly come a long way, in both name and culture, from its original beginning as a small fishing village, to the bustling metropolitan city that it is today. Originally inhabited by the Khmer people for centuries, ruled by the Vietnamese, and then conquered by the French in 1859, HCMC has a many cultural influences. HCMC was originally named Prey Nokor, which roughly means “god” or “heavenly” in Khmer. After Prey Nokor was settled by Vietnamese refugees from the north, the name was changed to Saigon.

Port of Saigon circa 1862

From 1859 to 1954, the French ruled HCMC. In 1954, the French were defeated by the Communist Viet Minh in the Battle of Điện Biên Phủ, and withdrew from Vietnam. Rather than recognizing the Communists as the new government, they gave their backing to a government established by Emperor Bảo Đại. Bảo Đại had set up Saigon as his capital in 1950.

At the conclusion of the American/Vietnam War on April 30, 1975, the city of Saigon came under control of the Vietnam People’s Army. American’s typically know this as the “Fall of Saigon.”

President Ho Chi Minh

In 1976, upon the establishment of the unified communist Socialist Republic of Vietnam, the city of Saigon, the province of Gia Ðịnh, and 2 suburban districts of two other nearby provinces were combined to create Hồ Chí Minh City in honour of the late communist leader Hồ Chí Minh. The former name Saigon is still widely used by many Vietnamese, especially in informal contexts.

Vietnam: Flights

2008-03-18T11:42:00.000-07:00

Vietnam has two major international airports. Ho Chi Minh City is located in the South and Hanoi is in the North. These airports are served by many direct flights from several countries overseas, but long-haul flights usually stop in Bangkok, Singapore, Taipei or Tokyo where travelers will transfer to smaller planes for another flight to Vietnam.

Tan Son Nhat International Airport (airport code SGN) in Ho Chi Minh City is Vietnam's largest airport, located about eight kilometers from the city center. The airport code comes from the city's former name of Saigon.

When stepping off the airplane, prepare yourself to be welcomed my a warm hug of sultry heat waves! Vietnam was one of the most humid and just downright hottest countries I have visited. Locals seem to relax during the day and sit on the street chatting, while selling all sorts of foods. Then at night, they head to the market and out on the town. Don't forget to drink lots of (bottled) water!

Tuk-tuking around HCMC

The easiest and least expensive method of transport from the airport to the city is the relatively recently introduced bus No. 152. It's air-conditioned, and will drop you off in the city center.

However, we didn't exactly know about this at the time and first agreed to take one carrier's transport service, until we found out that it was no more than a moped. But he was convinced he could squeeze us and our luggage on the tiny bike. Rather than finding out, we played it safe and took a tuk-tuk.

A stream of mopeds speeding down a Saigon street

When heading home, don't forget that you will be asked to pay a departure tax as you're leaving the country (unless it was included in the price of your ticket) - don't spend all your money before you get to the airport! I believe this is under $20.

Vietnam: What the Phở?

2008-03-04T11:29:00.000-08:00

Where to I begin?!? The food in Vietnam is some of the best I have ever eaten. The traditional Vietnamese dish of Phở is certainly a dreamy bowl of cultural delight that amazingly cools you off on a sultry day.

Phở -nomenal

Phở is served as a bowl of white rice noodles in clear beef broth, with thin cuts of beef (steak, fatty flank, lean flank, brisket).

Seasonings include Saigon cinnamon, star anise, charred ginger, cloves, and sometimes black cardamom pods which are sewn up in a disposable pouch and dipped into the broth.

Enjoying some phở on Mui Ne Beach... am I slurping?
I think so, but it is culturally permissible in Vietnam. Whew!

The dish is garnished with ingredients such as green onions, white onions, coriander leaves (cilantro), ngò gai (culantro, or long coriander), Thai basil, lemon or lime wedges, and bean sprouts. The last five items are usually provided on a separate plate, which allows customers to adjust the soup's flavor as they like. Some sauces such as hoisin sauce, fish sauce, and the Thai hot sauce Sriracha, are popular additions as well.

This dish differs by regions, as each region uses garnishes that grow near them. So one thing that is certain is that every bowl will be different, and the wonderful thing about pho is that it is served for breakfast, lunch and dinner!

And just in case this bowl of goodness isn't your cup of tea, there is a variety of other amazing dishes that will blow your mind! The seafood is caught fresh daily and literally served to you within only a few hours. I wanted to try it all!

Sea bass with peanuts and sweet chili sauce

Don't miss out on the Vietnamese coffee. Made with the richest coffee and a delightful drop of sweetened condensed milk, it is a delicious spin on your morning joe! As you see it comes with a mini filter that sits on the top of your cup, so you can make a second cup if you like!

Vietnamese Coffee

Vietnam: Getting There

2008-02-20T11:42:00.000-08:00

Officially named The Socialist Republic of Vietnam, Vietnam is an absolutely amazing tourist destination. Vietnam is bordered by China, Laos, and Cambodia. To the east lies the South China Sea. So not only is there a lot to see in Vietnam, but it is only a stones throw away from many other destinations as well.

Though the GDP is on the rise, Vietnam is still a relatively inexpensive place to visit. With beach resorts starting at about $35. But before you head to Vietnam, make sure you have your VISA.

Heading to get the VISA... glad I am not driving!

VISA
A VISA to Vietnam can be applied for by mail or in person at the Embassy of Vietnam as early as six months prior to the date of travel. The applicant must submit:
• Original PASSPORT.
• One completed and signed visa application form with 01 passport-size photo glued or stapled.
• VISA fee in the form of MONEY ORDER, or CASHIER’S CHECK, or CERTIFIED CHECK payable to “THE EMBASSY OF VIETNAM.” Applicants applying together may submit the fee in one money order.
• A prepaid return envelope, if the applicant requests the visa be returned by mail. Use US Express Mail (UPS and DHL are not accepted for the return envelope). Applicants applying together may provide one envelope for visas to be returned to the same address.

We got our VISA at the Vietnamese Embassy while we were visiting Phenom Penh, Cambodia. We paid the for the expedited service, which I believe cost $60. It took 2 business days. Generally, however, it takes 5 - 7 business days to process visa applications.

Vietnamese Embassy, Phenom Penh, Cambodia

It seemed that we were lucky in getting our VISAS in only 2 days because there were other travelers that were not having the same luck. I think that getting your VISA in Phenom Penh is a bit of a gamble, as there seems to be no exact process. Your best bet... plan in advance in get your VISA before you go.

Recipe - Num Tirk Doung (Coconut Pound Cake)

2008-02-13T17:45:00.000-08:00

Khmer Krom coconut pound cake is a moist and delicious cake often taken to the pagoda for food offerings on religious holidays, and also served at local markets. A delightful treat that can be topped with fruit or eaten on its own.

Ingredients:

4 Eggs
2 Cups all purpose flour
½ Cup melted butter
½ Cup coconut milk
¼ Cup fresh or frozen unsweeted, shredded coconut
1½ Cup sugar
2 Tablespoons pure vanilla extract
½ Teaspoon baking powder
¼ Teaspoon salt

Directions:

Preheat oven at 325 degrees.
In a mixing bowl, cream butter and sugar together.
Add egg, one at a time with butter sugar. Mix well.
Add vanilla, baking powder, salt and coconut milk.
Blended all purpose flour and shredded coconut.
Greased cake pan with cooking oil and sprinkle some flour at the bottom of cake pan.
Pour the cake batter in to the cake pan.
Bake for 1 ½ hours.
Remove the cake from the oven, cool and remove from pan.
Cream cheese icing with toasted coconut is optional (and yummy!)
Serve with tea or coffee.

Cambodian Recipe - Taro Chips

2008-01-29T17:41:00.000-08:00

When we were at the Elephant Bar at the Raffles Hotel, they served taro chips, which turned out to be a classy spin on chips and salsa, and far better than any bar food that I had ever tried. It is quite simple to make these tasty (and healthy) little treats.

Ingredients:

One large taro
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt

Preparation:

Peel the taro. A carrot peeler works great, but if you do not have one just use a paring knife.
Thinly slice the taro, then cut into strips.
Soak the taro in water to remove excess starch.
Generously spread olive oil on a baking sheet and place the taro on the sheet, careful no to overlap. Can also line with aluminum foil.
Sprinkle with salt.
Bake for 10 – 15 minutes on each side at 350 degrees.
These can be eaten on their own or served with chutney, sweet chili sauce, or even on their own.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Night Events

2008-01-21T17:35:00.000-08:00

Phnom Penh, the capital city, is the wealthiest and most populous city in

Cambodia

. It is also the commercial, political and cultural hub of Cambodia and is home to more than one million of

Cambodia

's population of over 13 million people.

The majority of the shops and services in the central market of Phnom Penh close down pretty early. But there is a strip near the Tonle River where many tourists visit. It is a pretty happening spot with several restaurants and bars.

Raffles Hotel

For a more upscale night out own the town, visit the Raffles Hotel. It is an absolutely breathtaking establishment with a posh lounge frequented by the upscale travelers.

In addition to the beautiful hotel and bar, they also often have a buffet-style barbeque dinner on their lawn. Unfortunately, we didn't make the buffet, but the food looked (and smelled) delicious!

Don’t miss the famous Elephant Bar, where you can enjoy Femme Fatale, the cocktail named in honour of Jacqueline Kennedy; the Airavata, a cocktail of secret ingredients; or the Million Dollar Cocktail, which gained notoriety in Somerset Maugham's tale, The Letter.

Sipping a Singapore Sling... my fave!

You can sit and sip your drinks in a swanky bar, while smoking the finest cigars. For a few dollars your tuk-tuk driver will wait outside and socialize with the other drivers while you relax. Initially, I felt horrible leaving him to wait on us. However, I quickly came to realize he was very happy to have the job and an opportunity to make money.

So indulge and enjoy! But you might want to change out of your backpacker’s clothes before going. We just happened to the Elephant Bar after reading about it in our guide book, and did feel a little out of place with our hiking shoes on. However, that awkward feeling quickly disappeared after a couple fabulous drinks!

We lost track... I think it is the Airavata! Served with taro chips, delish!

Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Day Events – Choeung Ek Genocide Center

2008-01-15T17:54:00.000-08:00

The Choeung Ek Genocide Center is located about 17 km south of Phnom Penh, and is the site of a former orchard and Chinese graveyard which is the best-known of the sites known as the Killing Fields.

Killing Field Memorial

Here, the Khmer Rouge regime executed about 17,000 people between 1975 and 1979. Mass graves containing 8,895 bodies were discovered at Choeung Ek after the fall of the Khmer Rouge regime.

Human bones displayed on a chopping block

Many of the dead were former inmates in the Tuol Sleng prison. Today, Choeung Ek is a memorial, marked by a Buddhist stupa that is filled with skulls of the victims.

Only a few of the mass number of skulls located in the Memorial

It was a very somber but educational experience. At first, I was not exactly excited about going, and even when I was there it felt strange staring at piles of human skulls and peering into pits that were used to throw human; however, in the end, I am glad that I had the experience because it helped me to better understand the culture and history of Cambodia.

A sign of life and hope

Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Day Events – Russian Market

2008-01-06T20:00:00.000-08:00

Commonly known as the Russian Market, this paradise of stalls and booths is any shoppers dream come true. From silk scarves and bags, to cosmetics, to intricate handicrafts and sculptures, the Russian Market has it all.

Entrance to the Russian Market

In the center of the market is the “food court” with a variety of freshly cooked culinary delights. We opted for the waffles, made fresh over firey hot coals, certainly the best waffles I have ever eaten. I often crave these. The batter was just a bit sweet, and served with dragon fruit, this is the perfect meal for any time of day, and at only 12 cents for two waffles, you can’t go wrong.

The most delightful waffles ever!

Just remember where you entered because it is certainly easy to get lost in here! This market twists and winds. There are rows of sort, but every hawker squeezes in to peddle their goods. An elderly woman was selling raw silk scarves and hand-made silk purses and pencil cases. Take you pick for $1. The head scarf and blue shirt I was wearing in the pictures at the Royal Palace both came from this market.

Digging for a bargain

The market was so crowded that the food vendors would often carry trays of food on their head to deliver it to customers, since a tray in their hand would easily be knocked over in the crowd.

The food court of the market... see the woman with the tray on her head!

You will also find rows of actual sewing machines set up and running quickly as local seamstresses hurriedly work to complete orders for custom made suits and dresses. Unlike Thailand, the seamstresses had suits on display and catered mostly to women. They were very delicate designs and patterns.

The sewing stalls... I am smiling, they are not. Looks like hard work!

The hands of the seamstresses sewed with great precision and accuracy. I had never seen a cleaner seam. However, since we had been burned with our Thailand suit experience, we didn’t opt for a suit here. You can also buy uncut fabric to take home with you for upholstery, curtains, or even clothing.

Looking a little lost in all that fabric

You can also find a great variety of travel books for Asia. Most are the Lonely Planet, and I think they have just been reprinted (likely without permission) but are legible and colorful. These sell for about $3 and were our saving grace during the trip. They provide lots of great information and are helpful when you need to point our a destination to your cabbie.

The handicrafts include everything from stone sculptures to chopsticks to wall décor. I wish I could have bought more because the quality here was far superior to that found in Thailand. The prices were a bit higher, but it was worth it. This is definitely a place to visit on your trip!

Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Day Events – National Museum

2008-01-03T12:25:00.000-08:00

The National Museum, Phnom Penh is Cambodia's largest and was built in 1917–20 by the French colonial authorities then in control of

Cambodia

, in a traditional Khmer style, with French influence. It is an absolutely beautiful burnt red building with huge columns. It encompasses an indoor - outdoor style that is very welcoming.

Entrance to the National Museum

The National Museum is located at Street 178 & Street 13, next to the Royal Palace, every cabbie knows how to get there. The admission costs is only $3.00 and the museum is open from 8:00 a.m. -5:00 p.m., everyday. You will likely find people selling books and refreshments on the corner outside the museum. You are not allowed to bring in the drinks, but the books are a good bargain and cover Cambodian tourist and culture.

Outer paths and gardens

There are over 5000 objects are on display including Angkorian era statues, lingas and other artifacts, most notably the legendary statue of the ‘Leper King.’ Though the emphasis is on Angkorian artifacts, there is also a variety of pieces from later periods, including a special exhibition of post-Angkorian Buddha figures.

One room of the Museum

Most of this is an open air museum with plenty of natural light to help you examine the treasures. There is a particularly nice area dedicated to Buddhist offerings, surrounded by small stones with word such as “peace” and “love” written with stones. Museum employees hand out flowers so everyone can give something to Buddha. It is a very beautiful and spiritual shrine.

Buddha shrine

There are also beautiful statues adorning the walking paths, and beautiful koi ponds as well. This is a very beautiful and serene place to spend an afternoon.

Beautiful exterior display

Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Day Events – Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda

2007-12-17T15:48:00.000-08:00

The Royal Palace is a complex containing buildings which are the royal residence of the Kingdom of Cambodia. Its full name in the Khmer language is "Preah Barom Reachea Vaeng Chaktomuk." The Kings of Cambodia have occupied it since it was built in 1866, with a period of absence when the country came into turmoil during and after the reign of the Khmer Rouge.

The amazing Royal Palace

The Royal Palace is located at Sothearos between Streets 240 & 184. Cost for entrance is $3.00/person, $2.00/camera, $5.00/video camera. Be sure to wear a shirt that covers your shoulders, and no short skirts or shorts. If you do forget, they offer clothes you can either purchase or rent for the day. The Royal Palace is open everyday, 7:30 a.m. - 11:00 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. - 5:00 p.m.

Buddha statutes in the Royal Palace

The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh was constructed over a century ago to serve as the residence of the King of Cambodia, his family and foreign dignitaries, as a venue for the performance of court ceremony and ritual and as a symbol of the Kingdom. It serves to this day as the Cambodian home of King Norodom Sihamoni and former King Norodom Sihanouk.

Small scale model of Angkor Wat

The Royal Palace also holds the world-renowned Silver Pagoda. To enter the Silver Pagoda you must first remove your shoes. Additionally, there are no photos in the Pagoda. It is named for the 5,000 silver tiles which are used to pave the temple's floor. Most of the floor is covered in a large rug to preserve its life. However, when you walk over the tiles, you can feel the move and squeak a bit. This really made me realize the magnitude not only of the structure’s composition but of the age as well. It was an amazing experience. The Silver Pagoda holds a life-size Buddha image of solid gold is a popular tourist attraction.

Silver Pagoda

Cambodia: Getting There and Getting Around

2007-12-13T21:45:00.000-08:00

After our visit to Thailand, we decided to see the historical and cultural sights of Cambodia. From Bangkok, we flew to the Phnom Penh International Airport. The BKK airport offers a luggage storage room at a minimal charge. We opted to drop off most of our stuff and keep only the bare necessities.

The flight to Phnom Penh was short, and we arrived in the evening. Though I expected the temperature to be warm, I was not fully prepared for the heat wave that encompassed me when I stepped off the plane.

Just outside our hotel

Taxi drivers are everywhere, and I was definitely looking forward to the ride as it was my only chance for a breeze. It seems that everyone who owns any sort of transportation is a taxi driver. We agreed to use the taxi service of one man until we found out that he had only a small scooter, and hoped to fit us on the back, along with our luggage. That didn’t exactly work out. Though I have seen an entire family of 5 on a small scooter, I didn’t have the coordination required for such a feat.

Busy streets just outside of town

Next, we found a taxi driver who owned an automobile. However, he informed us that our hotel had burned down and that he would gladly take us to a great place he knew of. Since we had just booked the hotel the night before, we had a pretty good idea that the hotel had not burned down overnight.

Finally we found a man with a great little tuk-tuk. We jumped in and were off. We cruised through the streets that were busy with locals sitting and chatting near the ever-popular street vendor. Since most people living there don’t have air conditioning, they stay outdoors during the evening as it is much cooler. This adds to the interesting nightlife that Phnom Penh has to offer.

A view of downtown from the tuk-tuk

We made it to our hotel and checked in without any delay. We then ventured out for a SIM card for our phone. However, apparently in Cambodia you are not allowed to purchase a SIM card unless you can prove that you are a Cambodian citizen. But not to worry, for the right price, the locals will be glad to buy one for you!

Packing list

2007-11-28T18:36:00.000-08:00

Here is the packing list I used for my trip. If you forget something, check Watson's drug store or 7-Eleven, because they have all the essentials. Try to pack light because you will be sure to pick up some Thai apparel and handicrafts to bring back.

Sunscreen
Lip balm
Medicine
Nail clippers & file
Facial cleanser
Moisturizer
Cosmetics
Toothbrush
Zip locks
Books & Magazines
Journal
Digital Camera
Sunglasses & Eye glasses
Light-weight shirts & pants
Shorts
Swim wear
Trainers
Flip flops
Small day pack
Calculator
Copies of all docs
Credit card
Passport
Tickets
Cash

Remember to pack light and enjoy where ever your path may lead you!

Here, we were fully packed and heading from Siem Reap to Saigon. Notice we had only one backpack each!

Thailand: Getting There

2007-11-18T11:01:00.000-08:00

There are several airlines that fly to Thailand. We have taken China Airlines in the past and were very pleased. They afford the economy passengers the luxuries of flying first class with amenities such as slippers, mid-flight yoga instruction, and gourmet meals. If you have the option to have breakfast on China Airlines, definitely choose the congee. It is a rice porridge with bits of onion and chicken. It is so delightful and hard to believe it was served on a flight!

The gardens at BKK airport

Most flights in to Thailand go to Bangkok. The Bangkok airport (BKK) has just been revamped and is very easy to maneuver, and quite beautiful too. There are many restaurants and shops too. So don't fret if you have a layover in Bangkok. You can troll the Gucci store or grab a great dinner!

Display at the BKK airport

Once you get to Bangkok, you will need a connecting flight if you are traveling to Phuket or Koh Samui. There are a few airlines that fly directly from the States to Phuket and Koh Samui, but these flights are very expensive. Just book your ticket to Thailand, then hop a cheap domestic flight to your final destination.

From Bangkok to Phuket, we flew Bangkok Air, which offered a complimentary traveler lounge. The lounge was amazing! They had everything from comfortable couches to nap on, to a full assortment of snacks and drinks, to free internet! They even had sticky rice!!! I was in heaven! I would definitely travel Bangkok Air again!

Bangkok Airways traveler lounge

There are the options of buses or trains, but the domestic flights are so inexpensive it just doesn't make much sense to spend another 12 hours en route. Grab a Bangkok Airways flight, and get caught up on your email while you are waiting for take off!

The brightly colored Bangkok Airways plane

Thailand: Buying Guide -- Local Items

2007-11-11T13:35:00.000-08:00

Thailand has a plethora of beautiful items you may want to take back home. From pearl from the Andaman Sea to handicrafts of all sorts, there are so many things to choose from! I really like buying the local items, as I call them, because I feel like I am supporting the people, and thus the country.

Some great items that I have found along the way include:

Pearls - You can find them everywhere, be it a necklace, a bracelet, earrings, or whatever you want. I purchased freshwater pearl in both natural color and black pearls and was very happy with the quality and price. I got the necklace and bracelet set for around $10 from a street vendor.

I also purchased a black pearl necklace and bracelet set, with the pearls being of slightly larger diameter for $12 from a vendor on Chaweng Beach. The vendor was so happy that it was the first sale of the day that he gave my boyfriend a bracelet made of shells and stones. I also purchased a pearl necklace that had three dangling pearls for only $3. These make great gifts to take back to family and only take up a small amount of space in your bag.

Black pearl set from Chaweng

Jewelry - Besides pearls, you can pick up a lot of different styles of very unique shell and stone jewelry. I bought some cute colored shell earrings for my friends for only $2 a pair. There is alot a lot of sterling silver jewelry to choose from.

Pearl bracelet from Pi Pi Island

Fisherman pants - Fisherman pants are one of the items that many tourists buy while in Thailand. These pants are hard to resist and the are the quintessential lounge pants. They generally have material on the sides that is tied in the front at the waist. Some are also draw string. These are comfy and great for a day at the beach or trekking through the islands.

Wearing fisherman pants while exploring Samui

Silk - You can't go to Thailand without buying silk. There are various silk items from scarves, to shirts, to bedspreads and pillow cases. I really wish I would have bought one of the bedspreads. I believe they were only around $25. I have been trying to find one in the States, but they go from $125-$200 here. So I think I will just wait until the next time I am in Thailand.

Thinking of getting a custom suit or dress made? See my previous article on Phuket... and beware!

Examining silk for custom dress

Handy crafts - The Thai people are very handy with the things their country offers them. They can craft so many beautiful and unusual items from bamboo! There are various decorative items, such as votive holders and bowls. They also carve Buddhist designs into wood and then brush a bit of gold paint on the top. They are really beautiful and I wish I would have bought one to hang on my wall! If you are looking to decorate you home, Thailand offers so many options at a very affordable price!

Wooden pose carving from Samui

Wooden elephant carving from Bangkok

Thailand: Buying Guide -- Knock-offs

2007-11-09T14:37:00.000-08:00

Thailand does offer some pretty nice knock-offs. Here are some items that seemed to be of good quality, and quite popular among tourists:

Modeling a Prada hobo bag

Lacoste polo shirts: There were a great buy at about $10 and available in every color you can think of.
DVDs: There are also bootlegged copies of DVDs for about $4 each. They seemed to be pretty good quality. There are also a ton of video games for cheap.
7 for All Mankind: Ladies, be sure to grab some 7 for All Mankind jeans! I saw the traditional bootcut and A pocket, both go for about $30.
Louis Vuitton: There are some pretty good Louis Vuitton items.
Gucci: There are some good... some bad. Be careful.

Gucci duffel bag from a Patong vendor

Prada: There are some nice purses but be sure the check the fixtures to make sure they are sturdy. If you want to know if a purse if leather, ask the vendor to put a flame to it. If it is real leather, it won't melt. Vendors usually love to do this to show off their leather wares.
Perfume: You can get various brands for $10 a bottle. Be sure to smell the sampler first because some of the scents aren't exactly what they were labeled. But still a great buy.

Lots of video games and DVDs

***It is important to know that the fakes come in different grades, so look around because if you are going to spend some money, you should get something that won't fall apart after the first use.

Ed Hardy hat - $9 from a street vendor in Samui

Pad Thai Recipe

2007-11-07T12:28:00.000-08:00

Pad Thai was originally developed in Bangkok to serve busy office workers with fast, nutritious and delicious food to eat during their breaks. You will still find it being served at street vendors and most restaurants.

Variations of this Thai favorite can be seen on menus across the country. Thai taste can be defined as the use of all 5 flavors: spicy, sweet, salty, bitter and sour. Only Thai cuisine brings out all of these flavors to play together harmoniously in a meal, and Pad Thai is no exception!

Thai Street Vendor

Ingredients:

1/2 package (16oz) wide rice noodles
2 1/2 tbsp. vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic
3 eggs
1/4 lb. pork, cut into 1" by 1/4" pieces
3 tbsp. dried small shrimps
2 tbsp. salted radish, chopped (optional)
2 tbsp. fish sauce
1 tbsp. thin soy sauce
2 1/2 tbsp. coconut palm sugar
1 tbsp. lime juice
1 cup bean sprouts
1/4 cup unsalted roasted peanuts, crush in a mortar & pestle or chop with a chef's knife
Lime for garnish

Preparation:

Boil 3 cups of water. Pour over noodles in a large bowl and soak for 20 minutes until softened. Drain.
Heat oil in wok, until hot but not smoking. Add smashed garlic. Add pork. Fry until meat is no longer pink.
Add eggs and stir until cooked, combining with pork.
Add noodles, dried shrimps, fish sauce, sugar, lime juice and bean sprouts. Stir fry for another 3 to 4 minutes until mixed up and heated through.
Add salted radish, if using (rinse if very salty). Stir fry another minute. Toss in the peanuts, tossing to mix.
Garnish with lime and serve.

Bangkok, Thailand - Night Events: Khao San Road

2007-11-05T10:41:00.000-08:00

Khao San Road

Khao San is a street filled with little bars and restaurants and lined with vendors as well. You can buy anything from frames for your glasses for $5, to hair clips and earrings, to bugs. That's right, bugs... you have a choice of worms, maggots, and some type of beetle. We opted for the tourists variety pack (tourist in that the locals won't come close to this snack). They are baked, probably in the sun, until they are crispy.

Bug Buffet

They are kept in metal containers under a heat lamp to make you feel as if they were actually cooked. Just before serving the tourist these lovely treats, they are sprayed with a brown liquid, which I think is something like soy sauce. Then they are doused with salt. All I will say is... if you are going to try these, be sure to have some water on hand, because they don't go down so smooth!

Khao San is a backpacker's paradise. This has been the meeting grounds for backpacker's exploring South East Asia for some time now. The street is about 1km long and has everything from hotels, to travel agencies, to clubs, bars, restaurants, and market stalls. You can find the entire inventory of a clothing store on display. I can't imagine how long it takes to assemble and disassemble the "store" as it is only on the street for night sales.

This was a fun place to go because everything you could ever think of is within reach. If you are looking to meet fellow tourists, this should be your first stop!

Bangkok, Thailand - Night Events: Bars

2007-11-02T17:56:00.000-07:00

Bars

Bangkok boasts a variety of bars and nightclubs. We visited the Q Bar. It was a pretty good time but didn't pick up until pretty late into the night. So I guess this would be the last stop if you are hopping. Q Bar brings in a lot of tourists because of live djs and cheap drinks (in US standards). It is a fun way to spend a night out on the town.

Q Bar

If you are hungry when you head home, hit the 7-Eleven. We, again mistakingly, asked our tuk tuk driver if there were any restaurants open. He drove us to a gamey smelling seafood restaurant that was severely over-priced.

Again an example of the tuk tuk drivers and the vendors being in cahoots. My advise to you, if you have a day to just spend driving around, feel free to ask the driver for his opinion, but beware if he takes you somewhere, you are bound to use the services, be it a store, restaurant, or tour.

Bangkok, Thailand - Night Events: Patpong Night Market

2007-11-01T18:11:00.000-07:00

Patpong Night Market
Here you will find knock off everything from Tiffany, Rolex, Louis Vuitton, to course loads of Diesel. If you are interested in buying fakes, do buy in moderation, as the Lanham Act (US) steeply penalizes possession or distribution of knock-offs. I have not heard of a tourist being busted with a fine or jail time, but I have heard that the items will be confiscated. The prices at the market are cheap, but you do have to deal with the locals who are peddling goods and just may push you to the edge.

The faint of temperament should not visit this night market as you will find it quite vulgar. Men will try to sell you tickets to X-rated shows and ask you to try on various clothes or buy DVDs. It doesn't seem to matter if you are there with a guy, they continuously flock you for business. No matter how many times you tell them you are not interested, they follow you for blocks... not to mention the go-go dancers that beg you to come to their shows.

Patpong Night Market

In the end, I found it to be a memorable experience. I would encourage others to check out the Patpong area, if nothing else, for the shock factor alone. It is a must see in Bangkok. Go with an idea of what you want to purchase and that makes the experience all the better.

Sticky Rice & Mango Recipe

2007-10-31T13:18:00.000-07:00

Thai desserts are called 'kanom' in Thailand. Sticky rice and mango is a marketplace favorite and not to be missed if you visit the country! It is my favorite!

Ingredients:

2 cups glutinous (sticky) rice, soaked in cold water for at least one hour and drained
2 cups coconut milk, canned or freshly prepared
A pinch of salt
4 tablespoons of sugar
2 large ripe mangoes, peeled and sliced

Preparation:

In a saucepan bring to a boil: rice, 1 1/4 cups coconut milk, salt, 2 tablespoons sugar and 1 1/4 cup water. Stir.
Lower heat and simmer, uncovered, about 8-10 minutes until all the liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat. Cover and let stand 5 minutes.
Transfer rice to a steamer or double saucepan and steam 15-20 minutes over boiling water, until rice is cooked through.
While rice is cooking, take the rest of the coconut milk (3/4 cup) and the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar and bring to a boil. Then remove and place in separate bowl for garnish.
Mold the cooked rice into individual ramekins or small cups lined with plastic wrap. Cool to room temperature.
At serving time unmold onto a plate and top with mango. Drizzle with coconut milk mixture you made earlier.

Sticky rice and mango served at a street vendor in Phuket

Bangkok, Thailand - Day Events: Cinema

2007-10-30T08:37:00.000-07:00

Cinema

Need a break from the Bangkok heat? Try catching a movie at the Bangkok cinema. The VIP seats entitle you to a plush velvet couch, fully equipped with cup holders and trays. They even offer blankets.

VIP Seats at the Major Cineplex

Their snack and beverage options are endless. You can get popcorn and a soda, or shrimp chips with a beer. We went to the Major Cineplex on the mall. VIP tickets were only about 250 baht.

Bangkok, Thailand - Day Events: Jim Thompson House

2007-10-29T12:05:00.000-07:00

Jim Thompson House

Jim Thompson was an American business man who helped revitalize Thailand's silk industry in the 1950s and 1960s. The house is filled with Thai artifacts. But if you are just looking to purchase some Thai silk products, you can find them at the night markets in Bangkok for much cheaper. The cost to tour the house is 1,000 baht per person.

Jim Thompson House

Bangkok, Thailand - Day Events: Snake Farm

2007-10-27T12:51:00.000-07:00

Snake Farm

The snake farm was not on my agenda, but it was one of the stops on our canal tour. It was an interested show to say the least. When we walked in, we passed a man with a huge snake draped over his arms and shoulders and touching the floor. I mistakingly assumed it was a toy, but in fact, it was real. Only in Thailand.

The snake "arena" was surrounded by tiny cages of snakes with their breed written with a marker on the glass. There was also an area with crocodiles. There was no top to the cage and the walls were only about 4 foot tall. Indeed a strange set-up, and again... only in Thailand. We saw a few birds and a couple mammals, then on to the snake show.

Snake Show... eek!

Here, four men pranced around a small ring holding a large snake, probably over 10 feet in length. Then they proceeded to milk venom and collect it in a small glass jar. It was a little scary just to be so close in proximity to the snakes, but the locals didn't seem to mind. The entrance fee was about 400 baht per person. I am not necessarily recommending the farm, but it was an interesting experience.

Bangkok, Thailand - Day Events: Canal Tour & Floating Market

2007-10-26T11:46:00.000-07:00

Canal Tour

A canal tour down the Chao Phraya River is another way to spend a few hours of your day in Bangkok. But don't expect a Venetian cruise. We got roped into the cruise because we made the mistake of blindly asking our tuk tuk driver what we should see. Since the tuk tuk drivers are on contract with many of the restaurants, shops, and other vendors, not only did he take us to the "port" but left us there. Needless to say, there was not a lot going on in that area, so we took the overpriced tour. We jetted down a mud-filled waterway.

The sights along the way were children jumping into the water, houses on stilts, a snake show and laundry being dried in the polluted air. Our tour ended by the Grand Palace, but by that time, the Palace was closed for the day. The tour lasted about 30 minutes and was 1,000 baht per person.

Canal Tour - the little boys were doing flips for us!

Though it certainly was not a luxurious cruise across turquoise waters, it was a nice opportunity to experience the Thai culture.

Floating Market

The floating market of Bangkok was on my to-do list and one of the reasons we initially agreed to the canal tour. However, the floating market does not really exist any longer. We saw two women selling drinks and fans on a boat, but that was it. Be cautious of tours that offer to show you the floating market. Though it may sound appealing, it is likely a ploy to get you on the over-priced canal tour.

Bangkok, Thailand - Day Events: Grand Palace

2007-10-25T11:16:00.000-07:00

Like every city in Thailand, there are definitely sights to see during the day, and a completely different list of venues for the evening. The next few posts will cover day events for Bangkok.

Grand Palace
During the day, I would recommend visiting the Grand Palace. The Palace dates back to 1782, and was constructed during the reign of Rama I. From the 18th to the mid-20th Century, the Palace served as the official residence for the King. The Palace is surrounded by tall walls and canals in order to protect the royal family.

Grand Palace

Cost for entrance is 700 baht per person and it is open from 8:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Don't be surprised if you are hassled by kids before you enter the Palace. This is a huge tourist site, which also means masses of little solicitors.

Travel Insurance: Do you really need it?

2007-10-22T10:21:00.000-07:00

Do you really need to get travel insurance for your vacation? The simple answer is that it is totally up to you. However, there are inexpensive options for insurance that are available. I used Insuremytrip.com. Other online travel insurance companies are Travelex and Travel Guard.

Based on a 2 week vacation, the insurance policies start at about $14. Some policies cover lost or delayed baggage and emergency evacuation expenses, while others only cover emergency medical expenses. Luckily I have never had to use my policy, so I don't have any personal knowledge as to filing a claim. However, travel insurance is a low cost for the piece of mind you get in knowing you are covered in the event of an emergency.

Green Papaya Salad Recipe

2007-10-21T12:31:00.000-07:00

Ingredients:
1 medium dark green papaya
2 tomatoes, cut into wedges
4 garlic cloves (kratiem)
6 green Thai chilies (prik khee noo)
1/2 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons vinegar
1/2 cup chopped green beans, in 1-in pieces
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) lime juice or tamarind juice (ma-kaam piag)
1/4 cup dried baby shrimp (optional)
1/4 cup dry roasted peanuts (optional)

*Note: You can substitute Mae Ploy sweet chili sauce rather than chilies, sugar, and vinegar.

Preparation:
1. Peel the papaya and rinse with running water to remove the acid. Remove the seeds and shred the papaya with a grater. Set aside.

Shredded papaya

2. Place the garlic cloves and the chilies in a mortar and mash with a pestle until crushed into chunks. Place the papaya and the remaining ingredients in the mortar and gently combine all ingredients by mixing with the pestle and a spoon. Top with dried shrimp and peanuts. Serve cold.

Ready to serve!

Thai Food Translations

2007-10-21T11:10:00.000-07:00

Here are translations for some of my favorite Thai foods. Enjoy!

Pad Thai – a stir fried rice noodle dish with meat and vegetables .

Pad Thai is the "tourist dish" and is served at nearly every restaurant. It is generally very mild since it is made for the tourists taste buds. Add a little sriracha for a spicy flavor. Sriracha is the Thai version of ketchup some say, but I found it to be much more of a vinegar and pepper flavor.

Laad Naa – Egg noodles vegetable and the meat of your choice served in a gravy sauce.
Paad See Eiw – Egg noodles stir fried with greens and in soy sauce. (salty)
Gy yahng, som-tahm, kaho neeo – Bar-b-que chicken, papaya salad and sticky rice. Very popular in open air restaurants.
Moo yahng – Bar-b-que pork. (mild)

A variety of fresh grilled meats at a local street vendor in Patong

Gy pahd med mamuang- Chicken stir-fried cashew nuts. (mild)
Gy pahd joht kaho pod- Chicken stir-fried with babycorn. (mild)
Gaang kioo wann gy- Chicken curry with bamboo. (varies)
Gaang gy- Chicken curry with coconut. (varies)

The chicken curry with coconut was one of our favorites. You really feel like you are on vacation when you incorporate coconut into every meal! Just a light coconut flavor and a creamy sauce with enough spice to give it a little punch.

The chicken stir-fry was good, but not what you expect from either cashew chicken or stir fry. A little bland for my liking, but great if your tummy need a break from all the spice.

Gaang pet gy sapparot- Chicken curry with pineapple. (varies)
Satey gy- Chicken satay with peanut sauce. (mild)
Gy pahd preeoh wahn- Chicken sweet and sour. (mild)
Tom Yum- Soup with lemongrass and coconut milk; served with chicken or prawn. (varies)

The chicken sweet and sour came with a sweet and spicy sauce and fresh tomatoes. A very light version of what I am use to being soaked with oil (in the States).

The Tom Yum is a little different at every restaurant, but I always seemed to welcome the change. Sometimes more salty and sometimes a bit more sweet from the coconut milk. Also a very light dish. The lemongrass is so fresh. A wonderful soup.

Gaang pet moo sapparot- Pork curry with pineaple. (varies)
Gaang goong sapparot- Prawn curry with pineaple. (varies)
Bamee pahd gy- Fried noodles with chicken. (mild)
Paht paak ruamit- Stir fried vegetables. (mild)
Papaya Salad - shredded green papaya, chopped green beans, tomato, dried prawns, unsalted roasted peanuts, chillies, garlic and lime juice (spicy)

Enjoying Papaya Salad (again!) at BKK airport

This is one of my favorites. I ordered it everywhere! It is a great mix of sweet, salty, and spicy.
If you want a dish not so spicy, tell they waiter "my ow pet"

Goong grathiem prik- Thai Prawns with garlic and chiles. (spicy)
Yam nuea- Beef salad. (spicy)
Gaang garrei neua- Yellow curry with beef. (mild)
Khao Neeo Mah Muang fantastic if in season. Sweet mangos served with sweet sticky rice topped with coconut cream.

Sticky rice with mango!

The mango and sticky rice is phenomenal but generally hard to come by. Most restaurants don't serve it, so check the nearby street vendors. It is a Thai delight you don't want to miss!

Koh Samui, Thailand -– Full Moon Party

2007-10-16T11:57:00.000-07:00

Full Moon Party
A few years ago, a group of tourists and the owner of Paradise Bungalow found that the most beautiful moon was in Koh Phangan. They arranged a party along the crescent-shaped beach of Haad Rin to celebrate the Full Moon night. From then on, people from all over the world came to join the celebration. And now there are 7,000-10,000 people at the party each month. Check the link for the Full Moon Party for more information and dates.

Unfortunately, we weren't there for the party, but attended the Black Moon Party. The Black Moon Party attracts over 1,500 people. It takes place 2 weeks before and 2 weeks after each full moon. This party is decorated with fluorescent lights and hosts resident DJs playing drum and bass. Also, very fun!

Koh Samui, Thailand – Snorkeling

2007-10-16T11:40:00.000-07:00

Snorkeling
Koh Tao & Koh Nangyuan are popular islands for snorkeling. Book these in advance through your hotel or the tour company directly, and don't be ashamed to ask for a better rate, because it is all about bargaining. Tours leave early, and provide a light breakfast.

Up close and personal

Generally, the tours include both islands, as well as lunch on Koh Tao, or "Turtle Island." We had a fabulous time. Be sure to take your underwater camera because there is a potential for some great shots. The tour guide will give you bread to feed the fish and they will eat it right out of your hand. You can feel their tiny little mouths. Fun, but a little scary too.

A view from Koh Nangyuan

Koh Nangyang has a very unique three-strand beach, which was formed by the ocean's current interacting with the three small islands. There is a resort on the island, Nangyuan Island Dive Resort, if you are interested in spending more time there.

Snorkeling at Koh Nangyuan

The tours will include a life vest and all snorkeling equipment, but feel free to bring yours because the equipment provided is very worn. You have the option of using a life vest, but the water is so salty that you float well. Our instruction, Liam, took us on little tours and pointed out different fish by using hand signals. He then had a book to show us pictures of the fish with the names. It was crazy to see the fish that we had just been swimming with!

Hungry fish loving the bread

Koh Samui, Thailand -– Island Trekking

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Island Trekking
Since Samui is such a tiny island, you can easily drive around the island in a day. There are many rental stores. We rented a small jeep for the day for $15. You can also rent a moped for $5 a day. However, if you are planning on driving around the island, I would opt for the jeep because traffic is insane. There are no age requirements to rent, but they will hold your credit card until you return with the vehicle. Though a small island, there are many things to do and see on Samui. Pick up a map from your rental store, and you are good to go!

Our island SUV

Big Buddha
If you are starting your trek in Chaweng Beach and heading North, Big Buddha will be your first stop. Big Buddha is a 12 meter high gold Buddha statue. There are also several Buddha statues surrounding Big Buddha on the upper level. You will see a reclining Buddha, which is the pose taken just before death. This is more than a Buddhist attraction, but is actually a temple used by the locals, so keep this in mind and be sure to wear something over your shoulders.

Big Buddha

Nathon
After Big Buddha, you may be ready for some lunch. Check out Nathon Beach. Though it is not a typical tourist beach, the food is amazing. There will be several restaurants along the road you will be traveling on. If you want to venture off the main road, head to the beach where you will find traditional, brightly-colored, Thai fishing boats. After lunch in Nathon, you can either continue to loop around the South side of the island, or trek to the interior. We took the second option.

Nathon Beach

Nathon Restaurant

NaMuang Waterfall
Na Muang Waterfall is located 10 km south from Nathon at Ban Thurian. There are 2 waterfalls.The first is 18 meter high and can be reached by vehicle. The second is about 80 meters high and can only be reached by a 30 minute walk. The waterfalls are the most scenic on the island.

Small waterfall

We were able to find the first waterfall and it was beautiful. Thai children were using it as a water slide and sliding down the moss coated rocks. While checking out the waterfalls, you may also want to take a scenic tour, via elephant.

Elephant Trekking
Very close to the waterfalls, you will find a couple venues for elephant trekking. This was an interesting experience, but the ride was fairly short. The locals are great about letting you "drive" and taking pictures of you on the elephant. It was fun, but also sad to see the elephants with chains on their legs to keep them from running.

Elephant trekking

I couldn't help to think that these big guys would rather be running in the wild. But it looked like the Thai people treated the elephants well, and perhaps even took care of them better than they did themselves.

We did the Samui Safari Nature Tours. It was 1,200 baht for a 30 minute guided trek.

Grandmother and Grandfather Rock
Before you head back to the hotel, don't miss Hin Ya and Hin Ta, or Grandmother and Grandfather Rock. Strangely shaped rocks at south Lamai. A local story tells of an old couple whose ship was wrecked in the bay. Their body's were washed ashore to create the rocks. Amazing how vulgar these rocks are, but definitely worth seeing!

Grandfather Rock

Koh Samui, Thailand -- Chaweng Beach

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Chaweng Beach
Chaweng Beach is definitely the most happening of the beaches. There are many tiny restaurants serving delightful treats and fresh homemade Thai food. No frozen food is being served here! From fresh coconut and corn on the beach, to spring rolls and curry... there is something for everyone!

A view from Chaweng Beach

There are also tons of little shops. If you need it, or even if your don't, they have it. One souvenir that is worth picking up in Samui is a wood carving. They are generally square or rectangle, and depict the face of Buddha. I have seen the exact carving sell in the US and Canada for $55! You can grab one for about $7. Some have a gold brush look to them as well.

Muay Thai
Just off of Chaweng Beach, you will find Muay Thai, or Thai kickboxing at Samui Stadium. Fights start at 9:00 p.m. Tickets are about 1,000 baht, unless you get a local to buy tickets for you.

Initially, I was not sure if this would be interesting to me since I don't have a martial arts background. Yet, I quickly come to find out that it is an experience not to be missed. There were little boys that were 6 years old who were fighting as the opener.

Muay Thai

There are about 10 fights in all, with the last, the most experienced fighters. There were a group of men standing close to the ring shouting at the fighters when they fell. Apparently, there is quite a bit of betting that goes on at the fights. But I wouldn't recommend betting with the locals, because you may get yourself into something that is not so easy to get out of.

Thai Massages
Don't forget to get a traditional massage while in Thailand. Massages start from $5 per hour. It is very relaxing and definitely a great bargain. When you get there, you will asked to change into a pair of fisherman style pants that tie in the front and to wait in a private room. Don't be alarmed, this is totally normal. If you are not in to a full body massage, try getting a leg massage or even a neck and back massage. There is a great massage salon just across the road from Chaweng Buri Hotel.

The massage salons generally do laundry as well. Be sure to pack light and just get your laundry done there. It is about $1 per kilo for laundry to be washed and pressed. Turn around time is usually a couple days. They also have an express service for a slightly higher cost.

Koh Samui, Thailand -- Hotels

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Koh Samui, Thailand is a truly exotic paradise, full of coconut trees and filled with the sweet smell of green curry floating along the warm island air. Samui is the third largest island of Thailand, but is quite small, which really allows you to experience the Thai culture and lifestyle.

Yoga on Samui

As you approach for landing, you will see that Samui boasts and quaint and tropical open-air airport. Constructed out of tree trunks and lush foliage, you will know you are on vacation as soon as you land. A colorful little trolley will drive you to the baggage claim area, where you can actually see the airport employees placing your bag on the conveyor belt. Don't bother with a cart, because as soon as you step away from the airport, there are only dirt roads. Luckily, there will be many happy Thai men waiting to give you a lift to your hotel.

Hotels
You should have a hotel in mind, otherwise, the driver will try to convince you to go to a certain hotel, telling you that is is nice and cheap. However, beware of this. It is not just a friendly tip, but rather the driver has contracts with hotels and will tell you anything to get you to go there. Once in a while, it may be a gem. But I would go with a plan in mind or at least have him drop you off a Chaweng Beach where the beach is lined with cute little hotels.

We stayed at the Chaweng Resort and the Chaweng Buri, both fantastic hotels. The Resort had a nice workout room and huge breakfast in the mornings. The bungalows were nice sized, but beware of the mosquitos that come in the air-conditioning vents. The Buri was also very nice, with beautiful bungalows near the beach. They also served a nice breakfast, but did not have many beach chairs, so get there early.

Deluxe bungalow at Chaweng Resort

If you are interested in staying at a beach that is more peaceful and relaxing, with less touists, try the The Samudra Retreat (formerly Samui Peninsula Spa & Resort) located just North of Chaweng Beach. It is more costly than the Chaweng hotels, but it is worth it.

The Samudra Resort

There is a small island to the North that you can walk to when the tide is low. But don't stay long, or you'll be swimming home.

Visiting the uninhabited island North of the Peninsula

There are also wonderful restaurants lining the beach. They serve you while you recline in beach chairs and enjoy the view.

Outdoor dining on the Peninsula

Phuket, Thailand

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One of the amazing locations I recently visited was Phuket, Thailand. Phuket is a tiny island, tucked off the coast of Thailand, in the Andaman Sea. It is a lush island with beautiful scenery and amazing views. While in Phuket, you can experience the underwater life first hand, as there are snorkeling and dive tours offered everywhere. If you are not interested in taking the plunge, you can always take a deep sea fishing tour, where you can catch your dinner. If excursions aren't your cup of tea, you can simply lay on the beach and soak up the rays. The locals will be happy to bring you drinks, foods, and even fresh coconut oil for only a small cost.

Patong Beach
Patong Beach is the most popular beach for tourists. This is where you will find narrow streets lined with tiny shops selling everything from clothing, to knock-off purses, to statutes and figurines. Besides Bangkok's night markets, Patong Beach is probably the cheapest place to find your tourist treasures. Don't be surprised if there is no fitting room. It is not uncommon for the proprietor of the store to live in a small area in the back of the store. It is generally acceptable to try on clothes over your swimsuit, and the owner is always eager to make a sale. There is a multitude of figurines and statutes for sale. Most are made out of a black material. I have been told by the Thai salesmen that it is dolphin bone, stone, and wood. However, after careful inspection, I believe it is resin. They are nice statutes, carefully made, and hold up well through the travels.

One of the many shops on Patong

Knock-off Prada handbag

Food
There are countless restaurants along the strip in Patong Beach. I am not sure that one really is better than the other, but we found ourselves frequenting Restaurant No. 42, just off the beach, on several occasions. The people were very friendly and the papaya salad was unrivaled. You will be doing yourself a great injustice if you don't have the papaya salad at least once! We also found a quaint little restaurant that doubles as a parking lot during the day. When evening comes, they start rolling in the cooking area, table, chairs, and fresh fish on ice. Try everything you can, but remember to take your Tums, as Thai food all tends to be a little spicy, even when you order it not spicy.

Amazing Papaya Salad at Restaurant No. 42

Parking lot diner

Bartering
Bartering is a big part of the Thai shopping experience. The prices are marked up because the owner expects you to bargain. Generally, if you offer half the price, you can work out a deal of about 25 - 30% off. Additionally, the more you buy, the cheaper they get. So thinking of buying all of your souvineers at one store and at the same time.

Custom Suits
Thailand is also well-known for it custom made suits. You won't be able to walk down the street without someone insisting that you need a new suit, made by them of course. If you are in the market for suits, go with a plan. Take either a suit that you already own, or a picture of the exact suit you want. If not, you will have to pick from catalouges of patterns or mens magazines that are very old and out dated. Additionally, I would suggest that you do not attempt to design your own suit or dress, unless of course this is your profession. I attempted to design a simple dress and it was a dress disaster. The dress was way too short, so small that I could not zip it, and overall unattractive. I would not choose Narry's Tailors (aka Baaz). Though they boast a world wide reputation in the suit industry, we received poor service and poor quality, at a price that was far above the other local tailors. Beware of Narry's!

Second fitting for a custom suit

Mai Khao Beach
If you are looking for a more secluded and less touristy beach, try staying at the JW Marriott. This is an amazing hotel with impeccable service. It is located on the private Mai Khao Beach with pristine white sand beaches. The JW is one of the only 5-star hotels on the island, and you can tell. The staff takes care of your every need and then some... from the bathroom towels folded as an elephant, to the walkie talkies they use to make sure all the pool-goers drinks are full. The rooms are very large and beautifully decorated and even include an area for meditation. They have 10 restaurants and bars, as well as an on-site spa. This hotel runs about 3-4 times the amount of staying at a small hotel in Patong, but if you are looking for a peaceful and relaxing stay, it is well worth it.

Remarkable JW Marriott Pool

Beautiful private white sand beach

Pi Pi Island
While in Phuket, I would definitely recommend visiting Pi Pi Island. It is a short day trip, that offers you the opportunity to enjoy about an hour jet boat ride. Once there, you can explore Pi Pi Island (where The Island was filmed). Pi Pi Island actually consists of two islands, however most tours only go to Pi Pi Don, the larger of the two. If you like rock climbing, considering an extended stay at Pi Pi, because I hear the climbing is off the charts. Pi Pi Island was struck by the devastation of the tsunami but is mostly rebuilt to its original beauty. So keep in mind that visiting there also helps the locals with restoration.

Most tours offer a lunch included in the package. Our lunch was fantastic! On the way back to Phuket, you can stop at other small islands for a drink or just some time in the sun. Our tour guide took us by the area where bird's nests are cultivated for bird's nest soup. It was an amazing trip, but remember to take any medicine you may need, as there were no 7-Elevens on this trip. Our tour, including lunch, was about $30 a person. Tickets can be purchased at the kiosks along the beach for a cheaper rate. The tour lasted from 8am to 3pm.

The view from Pi Pi Island

All the tour boats

Bird's nest soup caves